Tuesday 10 May 2016

DAY 24 - LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE TO NEVERS

The stretch of the GR3 between La Charité-sur-Loire and Nevers is also part of the GR654, one of the main Camino routes in France. On our rest day in La Charité-sur-Loire we saw the first long-distance walker we have seen on our trip so far, and surmised that she was probably walking a part of the Camino. We didn't ask her because she was on the other side of a busy road.

Camino sign - today's section of the GR3 is also a part of the Route de Vézelay, one of four main paths taking pilgrims through France on their way to Santiago de Compostela 

The first 15 or so kilometres of the GR out of La Charité-sur-Loire go up and down and back and forth, avoiding major roads and no doubt seeking out any hills in the vicinity. With a long day's walk ahead of us today, and an even longer one tomorrow, we eschewed this section of the path and navigated a fairly direct and much shorter route to Chaulgnes. There we joined the GR3/GR654, and mostly stayed with it for the rest of the day.

Following the GR3/GR654 through the woods
And further into the woods
It rained for most of the day, making for slow going at times as we tried to avoid the water hazards on the path. On the upside, we had another opportunity to practise our artistic puddle photography. 

Rainy day on the pilgrim path - a time for reflection

A welcome surprise awaited us at the small village of Parigny-les-Vaux. We started our trip three weeks ago looking forward to being in similar-sized villages at lunchtime, to sit down in the local café or bar and enjoy a rustic lunch. Almost invariably, there had been a café or bar in such villages, but all too frequently they had long since closed their doors. At Parigny-les-Vaux there was an unprepossessing bar, open and well-patronised, where we were able to have a simple lunch and get out of the rain for a while. When we left, the patroness and all the clientele wished us well on our way. 

Welcome lunch break at Parigny-les-Vaux 
After lunch, we encountered a section of the GR which was overgrown. We were thankful for our waterproof trousers as we waded through the knee-high grass.

Slow going
Eventually, the going got easier,  and the sun even put in a brief appearance as we approached Nevers. A track through the forest, a walk by the fields, a long drag through the northern suburbs, and we reached our destination for the night. 

There were glimpses of sunlight as we made our way through the obstacles towards Nevers

Day:  24
Distance:  31.96km
Walking time:  6hrs 41mins
Elevation gain:  460 metres
Cumulative distance:  598.41 km

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